Walking with a Ghost

I attended a fantastic lecture and discussion at Eastern State Penitentiary earlier this week.

The lecture and subsequent discussion focused on the site's dependence on its haunted house, Terror Behind the Walls, which takes place from September through Halloween each year. Terror Behind the Walls has been extremely popular and brought in a full 65% of ESP's operating budget in 2010. ESP staff believe that Terror Behind the Walls allows them to operate the increasingly popular daytime, history-based tours of the site and also to make much-needed improvements to the site such as a temporary roof over one of the cell blocks. Although nearly the same number of people attended the daytime tours as did Terror Behind the Walls last year, it does seem that one supports the other. People in the audience attested to this fact.

This state of affairs, however, saddens me. I love ESP and have visited several times. The staff does an excellent job of interpreting the site and are improving the connections made between ESP and the current prison situation in this country. They care very deeply about presenting an honest and accurate look at the prison's history. I wish that the organization could sustain itself without such heavy reliance on the funds brought in through Terror Behind the Walls.

One final thought. I am very conflicted about Terror Behind the Walls. On the one hand, this event supports ESP throughout the year and ESP's staff has used the funds well. But on the other hand, Terror Behind the Walls could serve to reinforce negative stereotypes about prisons, prisoners and prison guards. ESP is stuck firmly between a rock and a hard place.

I am reminded of a story about the Philadelphia History Museum published in the New York Times last December. The museum sold some pieces from its collection in order to finance renovations and the improvement of its storage facilities, etc.

ESP and the Philadelphia History Museum seem to have raised money in the best way and attempted to use the resulting funds in the most productive and ethical way possible. But have they lost something in the process?

Ramblin' Man

After two crazy days of tramping all over Philadelphia with my parents, I have some comments to make.

First up: the Eastern State Penitentiary



Let me preface this by saying that I was completely skeptical about this place before visiting. The prison's website is something just less than good and I was afraid it would rely too heavily on its reputation as a haunted historic building. I decided to visit the penitentiary more as a means of entertaining my parents than anything else.

I now wish to retract my previous assumptions. The audio guide (included in your ticket price) gives a good history of the building. There are about nine introductory audio stops, and then you can wander around the rest of the grounds as you choose. Most of the "optional" audio tour stops have labels giving at least minimal background information, meaning that one could choose to continue without the audio guide. The audio guides are thus flexible and affordable. Plus, Eastern State is unique. Although Philly has plenty of historic buildings and museums, to my knowledge there is nothing quite like Eastern State anywhere else in the city.



The penitentiary is also close to some other great cultural institutions, including the Philadelphia Museum of Art and any of the other BF Parkway Museums. The Fairmount neighborhood also has some great dining options. I recommend Figs, located at the corner of 25th and Meredith Streets.

Next up: the U.S. Mint



The Mint is one of those government buildings that just makes me sigh. The exhibits are shabby. The glue holding some of the exhibits together is beginning to fail and its obvious that the exhibits have not had an overhaul in years. That said, the tour is free, somewhat informative, and I did learn how coins are made. Plus, everyone likes to see the coin-making process live from the gallery windows above the factory. My final assessment: don't snub the Mint, just don't expect bells, whistles, or anything fancy.

Last but not least: the Wanamaker Organ at Macy's



I have to give my mother the credit for tracking down this little gem. The organ is included on one of the walking tour cards I mentioned a few weeks ago. In 1874, the Wanamaker Department Store moved to what is now the Macy's building at S. 13th and Market Streets. John Wanamaker installed the world's largest pipe organ in the store's seven-floor Grand Court. The organ is still played two times each day.



First of all, the building is worth visiting even if you could care less about the organ. Its an absolutely beautiful building that is still used for its original purpose. Second, the organ itself its gorgeous and its size is simply overwhelming. It is difficult to comprehend just how impressive the instrument is without actually going to see it. Third, you get to hear a really great organist play the organ for free in an amazing setting. The experience is entirely worthwhile, and even more so since it won't cost you a cent. Unless, of course, you can't help yourself from shopping while you're there.